The evening run is the standard shape: a 4x4 over the dunes in the late afternoon, a camp with camels and henna and a buffet, back in the city by about nine. Morning trips skip the dinner and the crowds both. The dune driving is genuinely rough — it is the one part worth skipping if anyone gets motion sick, and most operators will drive you straight to camp instead. Trips inside the conservation reserve cost more and cap their numbers, which is exactly what the money buys. Take something warm: the temperature falls fast once the sun goes.