Pura Luhur Uluwatu stands on a limestone cliff about seventy metres above the Indian Ocean at the southern tip of Bali, and the sea is the reason to be there. The Kecak is performed in the amphitheatre beside it as the sun goes down: no instruments at all, just a circle of men chanting, and a fire dance at the end. The macaques in the temple grounds are practised thieves — sunglasses, phones and anything loose should be in a bag before you go through the gate.
